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Old 04-21-2007, 11:40 AM
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Mach1 / How Much Time

to get her cleaned up and running? !
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Old 04-21-2007, 11:45 AM
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The List:
  1. Wash Exterior
  2. Clean out the Engine Bay
  3. Charge Battery
  4. Place car on Jack Stands and clean all the leafs and spiders out
  5. Take Off the Old Clutch
  6. Install New Clutch Adjuster (Termee jacked Mach)
  7. Find the Coolent Leak
  8. Install new clutch and trans
  9. Find a X-pipe

list doesnt look bad....I so Lazy
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:00 PM
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You should do all the mechanical stuff before cleaning it....
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The longest second in the UNIVERSE is that last second down the track.
That is why we seek to eliminate that last second.
But then there is the 'new' last second.
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96GTS View Post
You should do all the mechanical stuff before cleaning it....
Darren, I would....but I am not worried about the Mechanical stuff / more so worried about what type of spiders lurk around her

Cant do the install yet. Waiting on my clutch adjuster and I think i need a new clutch fork. The one that came on the T56 comes off way to easy from the stud...doesnt seem right.

So got two little things to take care of.
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:08 PM
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Man, i so hope that my stupid 100% cotton suit was enough protection for the first thing on my list to do! washing the car was turning up some odd looking spiders and who knows how many giant ones escaped my radar ( i'll get you later ) . she is looking like a zinc mach1 in appearance !!! i wished that i took care of my working area, long time ago guess this one is going to be a fairly lenghty project. shit...what is that crawling on my neck !!!
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Old 04-21-2007, 03:39 PM
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Poor car. At least you've finally decided to pay her some attention.
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Old 04-21-2007, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SonicVenum View Post
Poor car. At least you've finally decided to pay her some attention.
I know

Well, did Number 1, 2 & 4....well almost all of 4. Didnt put her on jack stands yet since getting the leaf out was serious work

Aint got nothing to do tomorrow, so might as well finish 4 off completely and do number 5 & 8...then call it a weekend. Car is in need of a clar bar job and some serious meguiars product....I cant wait to get the car done to do the wax on her.

I need to get the parts i need soon.....them bee's are coming soon
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:35 PM
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You forgot the last step.......................................NX 100 shot
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 blk/blk View Post
You forgot the last step.......................................NX 100 shot


nah...

Dan, do you have a 10 spline clutch aligment tool that I can borrow for a weekend? I only have the 26 spline one....id use the snapped input shaft from the TR3650, but it snapped right off where the disc was.
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:53 PM
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Time to Eat and Drink...ruff day and I got bites from all sorts of creatures to prove it. Almost 5pm when Nascar at Phoenix is aired
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:18 PM
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looks good Dave - I cant believe how dirty you let it get
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:18 PM
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you know, that thing sits pretty high!
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2007, 05:22 PM
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Dave, I have an old T-5 input shaft (blown up of course!) and an alignment tool. You can borrow either. Hit me up, cause we need that Mach1 up and racing by my MDD!!
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:28 PM
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Sorry Dave only have the 26, but I see Sal has one, let me know if you need anything else..........beer included.
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Old 04-21-2007, 06:23 PM
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Actually, you need:

  • M-6007-D514RT*Rear Sump T-pan
  • 625 HP @ 6250 RPM
  • 600 ft./lbs. of torque @ 4800 RPM
  • 9.8:1 compression ratio (nominal)
  • Forged aluminum dished pistons, M-6108-C514
    H-beam connecting rods, M-6200-C514
    Mechanical roller camshaft , M-6250-A514(mechanical roller camshafts not recommended for street use; ontact Techline for more details)
    High-performance rear T-sump oil pan, fits most Fox body cars
    MSD billet distributor
  • Cast nodular iron, M-6303-A514
  • Sturdy 460 2-bolt main short block M-6009-D514
  • M-6049-SCJB “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads
  • M-9424-H429 “Victor Jr.” single plane intake manifold (requires Dominator carb)
  • NOTE: See engine installation and tuning tips on page 40. Photo and specs may vary.
  • Look at what you get
  • A 514 cubic inch engine assembly that includes the items listed above and a multi-index timing chain, 4130 one-piece push rods, roller rocker arms, HV oil pump, pickup, high-performance oil pan, M-6582-C460 valve covers, aluminum front cover and water pump, damper, flywheel, spark plugs, related long block engine parts and remanufactured block .030" overbore – to which Ford Racing engineers have added:
    • Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads. They flow significantly more than production 460 heads. Combustion chamber volume is 72cc (nominal)
    • Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” valve train includes dual-valve springs, retainers, keepers, seals and premium stainless steel swirl polished valves. Intake valve diameter is 2.20" and exhaust valve diameter is 1.76"
    • Ford Racing high-performance solid roller mechanical camshaft M-6250-A514 provides significant horsepower increases above 3500 RPM and good low-end torque. Valve lift is .640" intake and exhaust. Duration at .050" is 254 degrees intake and 258 degrees exhaust
    • Ford Racing forged aluminum dished pistons M-6108-C514, bore size 4.360" ( .030")
    • Remanufactured blocks have a clean-up cut to the cylinder head deck, align honed main bearing bore, bottom tapped holes (no heli-coils), new freeze plug and cam bearings
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